What is the best company of dog food for my Westie?

I was just wondering what Would be the best Company of dog food to feed my Westie-and something that was made for Westies, so then he wont get any skin infections. I heard that Iams dog food isn't that good. i was also wondering what i would need to get for my westie before i get him.

Iam's is not a good dog food. I feed my baby Canidae and nutro. I switch them because I don't want him to get sick of one kind. There are more organic food out there that's good too but always remember DO NOT buy dog food from the grocery store for them because they are normally not good for the dogs

There is no food that is the *best*, different individual dog may thrive on different foods. What is best for one may not be the best for the next. And just because a food is good quality, it doesn't mean it will jive the best for your dog.What you want to find is the HIGH-QUALITY food that *your dog* does best on.Don't buy into the "breed-specific food" crock. Or the "dental food" crock. It's just a marketing scheme.If you're getting him as a puppy, here would be some examples of good choices:* Merrick (any)* Canidae (any)* Innova puppy* Chicken Soup for the Puppy Lover's Soul* Artemis Fresh-Mix small breed puppy* Wellness Just for Puppy=== ===Read the ingredients before you buy.Here is my "short list" of rules when I am looking at dog food ingredients:1) When I chose a dog food, I chose one high meat content. I want to see preferably at least 2-3 out of the top 5 ingredients be meat or meat meal (first ingredient must be!). Meal is simply the meat with the moisture removed.2) I want to see higher quality grains, such as barley, brown rice, and oatmeal, instead of seeing wheat and corn. Or an alternative starch/carbohydrate such as potatoes or sweet potatoes.3) I don't want to see any byproducts.4) I don't want to see a lot of fillers.5) I don't want to see preservatives that are believed to be carcinogens (BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin).6) I don't want to see artificial colorings such as the Red, Blue, and Yellow dyes.7) I don't want to see added sugars (sugar, corn syrup).8) I don't want to see mystery meats (meats identified only as "meat" or "poultry".)Here is an article about byproducts:http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=ingrdAnd an article on what ingredients to avoid:http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=badingredients---Here are some examples of GOOD dog foods:* Artemis* Blue Buffalo* California Natural* Canidae* Chicken Soup for the Pet Lover's Soul* Eagle Pack Holistic Selects* EVO* Fromm* Innova* Merrick* Nature's Variety* Orijen* Solid Gold* Taste of the Wild* Wellness* ZiwiPeakOr check this website; the 4, 5, or 6 star rated foods are all good foods. http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_reviews/(For a puppy, it's better to stick in the 4 & 5 star range. The 6 star foods are very high in protein and are not well suited for puppies.)---Higher quality food may seem more expensive at first, but it evens out. The higher quality the food, the less fillers eaten (and therefore the less poop comes out the other end). Your dog eats more of a low-quality food to try to get the nutrition it needs, and most of the food just passes right on through. Also, higher-quality food will make your animals healthier, so you save money on vet bills in the long run.---What *NOT* to buy:Stay away from grocery stores brands. They are low-quality foods chalk full of fillers, preservatives, dyes, etc.. (Grocery store foods are those like Beneful, Old Roy, Alpo, Pedigree, Purina, etc.)Beware "premium" foods. "Premium" does not always mean good nutritionally, and is not a nutritionally high quality food. Most of these foods have the same types of ingredients as grocery store foods, just a bit better quality of those not-so-good ingredients. (Premium foods are those like Iams, Eukanuba, Science Diet, Bil-Jac, Royal Canin, etc..)Another thing to be wary of: A lot of vets will recommend what they sell in their office. They get profit from the brands they keep on their shelves, that's why they push it. Truth is, vet schools don't focus a lot on nutrition. It's not saying that a vet is a bad vet because he recommends those foods, a lot of vets just are told "this is good food", so they pass the message along without proper nutrition knowledge. Also, some dog food brands (like Hills) support vet schools, so vets have heard of it from the time they start college, which makes them think it's good as well.Hills company, the makers of Science Diet, are heavily involved in vet schools. "Hill's scientists author more than 50 research papers and textbook chapters each year and teach at leading schools of veterinary medicine" (Source of quoted section: http://www.hillsvet.com/zSkin_2/company_info/company_info_general.jsp?JSESSIONID=HMz2B3Jn3hv0rnSoxCobfbBhOec35ODG7yh5t3P0vcvhOtzRlQ9M!598359213!167846923!7005!8005&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302026072&bmUID=1196192566575 )---"Big box" petstores like Petco and Petsmart rarely have quality foods. (There are some higher quality foods at those locations, but most of the foods aren't.)* Blue Buffalo* Castor & Pollux* Eagle Pack Holistic Selects* Natural Balance* Solid Gold* WellnessAlso, grocery stores and Walmart aren't good places to buy food either.Your best bets for getting quality dog food are:- small, locally owned petstores- dog boutiques- farm supply stores---When switching foods, do it gradually. I do this over about a two week timespan:25% food A, 75% food B50% food A, 50% food B75% food A, 25% food B100% food A.

There is no super food that is the best for every dog, but we are starting to switch our Schnauzer from her current food to Orijen and she loves it. Here are some other brands that are also good:WellnessCanidaeBlue BuffaloInnovaEVOMerrickMy friend has a Cairn Terrier who used to have lots of allergies and skin problems. My friend switched him to the raw diet and he felt much better, so you might also like that.