What can i do to get my dog used to being around other dogs?

My dog is scared of other dogs. What can I do to make him not as scared?

    What can i do to get my dog used to being around other dogs?

    My dog is scared of other dogs. What can I do to make him not as scared?...
    General Dog Discussions : What can i do to get my dog used to being around other dogs?...

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    • What can i do to get my dog used to being around other dogs?

      What can i do to get my dog used to being around other dogs? General Dog Discussions
      My dog is scared of other dogs. What can I do to make him not as scared?

      What can i do to get my dog used to being around other dogs?

      What can i do to get my dog used to being around other dogs? General Dog Discussions
    • Ask fellow Dog walkers, after confirming their dogs are receptive to others, to allow introduction. Increase these exposures over time and encourage play and off the lead interaction with dogs you trust.

    • Introduce your dog to a dog smaller than him. Only one dog not more that that. Keep your dog on a leash and close to you so you can keep a hand on your dog for security. If your hand is on your dog, he will know it and relax a bit. Don't force it. If he doesn't like the other dog then try again another time. Whatever dog he meets make it the opposite sex of him. They will get along better. Make it a brief meeting just to sniff and get comfy with each other. If this goes well, then next time let them play a little but still only one dog. When you feel he is ok bring in another dog.

    • Get him around other stable dogs as much as you can. I stress the word "stable." Try to avoid being around aggressive dogs at all costs! They will make your dog MORE scared and possibly turn aggressive too. Also, when you're in "teaching mode" carry a bag of small treats with you (like the size of your thumb nail so the dog doesn't get too full). When your dog sees another dog, and especially when another dog approaches him, give your dog a treat (if he's not too stressed to eat it). This will gradually teach your dog that other dogs means good things happen (treats) and he'll learn to be cool with other dogs and even like them. If you can, try this: Walk your dog on a leash and purposely walk by another dog (preferably a nice, quiet, calm dog). Give your dog a small treat every few steps as you approach the other dog. Keep telling your dog "Good boy!" or whatever phrase you like to encourage him. If he gets really scared and tenses up or stops eating the treats, take some steps away from the other dog. Don't force your dog into a scary situation (even if it's not really scary, it is to him). That will just cause more anxiety and possibly cause him not to trust you b/c you're pushing him too hard. So go slowly. Be patient. At your dog's pace, gradually move closer and closer to the other dog, continually giving treats every few steps. Eventually the dogs will be right next to one another. Praise and treat both of them (so the other dog doesn't get jealous or try to take the treats away from your dog). Over time, and more practice at this on leashes, let your dog off leash (in a fenced area, and again with a calmer dog), and do the same thing. It'll just be a gradual process. But if you can do this, such as getting a friend or someone with another dog to work with you, it should really help. Good luck!

    • Take your dog to an obedience training class once or twice a week. This will give your dog a chance to interact with other dogs at the same time that you're learning how to manage your dog around other dogs.

    • Socialization. It does not require that he interract with, or play with other dogs. Good socialization exposes a dog to a variety of environments and distractions and teaches him to function calmly and obediently even around distractions that have normally provoked fear or agression. Realize that fearfulness that is based on bad socialization or bad experiences may eventually go away with work. But a dog whose brain is genetically hard-wired wrong will never be cured of this. The best you can hope for is to learn to be around the things that he fears but keep control of himself by looking to you for guidance.You need to start with one dog, outdoors, and bring your dog up to the proximity where his fearfulness triggers a strong negative reaction. Now that you know where it is, back off just far enough that the dog goes from being anxious and excited, to alert and very aware that the other dog is there without acting up yet. Now start walking and have the other handler do the same, and as you walk, offer your dog high value food rewards every minute or two. Despite what Victoria Stillwell wants you to think, offering food isn't about helping the dog make a positive association with anything. It's about teaching that when he's uncomfortable he should look at you. When he looks at you he sees that you're not uncomfortable or panicked about anything. When he sees this it will help him relax.The goal here is to continually push the envelope and get closer while continually redirecting the dog's attention with food. If you got so close that the dog's excitement level gets to the point where he won't take food from you, you've gone too far too fast. Back off a bit. The goal is to get the dogs to the point where they can walk side by side, but your dog is more worried about looking at you than at the other dog. This is because he's starting to recognize that high value rewards come when he gives you his attention, but he gets nothing when he worries about what's going on with the other dog. Once your dog can walk comfortably around one other dog, start introducing him to situations where he is near 2 or 3 other dogs. But this isn't a play date. The dogs should not interract. You should practice continual redirection, until the dog becomes so accustomed to focusing on you waiting for his reward that other dogs are just furniture to him, meaningless background scenery that he doesn't need to concern himself with. Any time his excitement level gets to high, don't try to make him calm down. Just create distance. A dog that feels like it's at a safe distance can easily be redirected. If you're close enough that your dog is so excited it won't take food from you, it means you can't redirect his attention. If you can't redirect his attention, you can't work with him.

    • DO NOT TAKE YOUR DOG TO A DOG PARK!!! You want to control all interactions with other dogs. Make sure they are dogs you know and trust, make sure that both dogs are on leashes. Possibly meet with someone you know who has a very calm and well mannered dog/dog, and go for walks together. If there are other people walking by who have calm, well balanced dogs ask to walk with them after a brief introduction to make sure your dog will be alright with the dog.You want every interaction to POSITIVE, and non-confrontational. Avoid overly excited, dominant, or pushy dogs, and praise your dog for positively interacting with these well mannered dogs.Socialization is more than just throwing your dog into a dog park with bully dogs, dogs who are unstable, etc. YOU have to show your dog that you are going to protect your dog, and that you are not going to let anything happen to your dog while it is interacting with other dogs.Again, NO DOG PARKS. Always control interactions. If your dog becomes friends with a dog, schedule play dates at your house and the other dog's owner's house.