What is the best way to house train a lab puppy 6 weeks old?

From sleeping arrangements to going to the bathroom. Everything is new to me and I can use some suggestions. I purchased a dog kennel but she has been sleeping with me.Not sure how long is unhealthy to keep dog in kennel.

you shouldn't bother it or it will die and let it sleep a lot especially puppies.

you shouldn't bother it or it will die and let it sleep a lot especially puppies

Keep putting her in her kennel a little more time each day- and as for bathroom duties, put newpapers down on the floor and praise her when she goes on them- keep a little piece of paper with her pee on it, and make the paper smaller and smaller every day, then move it outside!

Patience and consistency are the key concepts to housetraining your puppy. 6 weeks is too young to expect your pup to be housetrained. You really can't expect your puppy to start getting the concept until it is roughly 3 months old (12 weeks) but between now and then you have to be consistent in taking it outside so that it can start getting used to going outside. At 6 weeks, by the time your puppy is aware that he has to potty, he more than likely has already pottied. Very young puppies are alot like babies in that way, they really can't "feel" that they're about to go potty. You should probably get a book on housebreaking your new puppy so that you will be prepared for the task. The more you know what to expect the more patient with your pup you will be able to be. Best of luck!

Congrats ..we have a 9 yr old yellow lab. start right away she needs to sleep in the kennel this isnt bad...our dog still likes to snuggle on her blanket in the kennel. they feel safe in there. when you feed her 10 minutes later..go right outside she will eliminate in 10-15 min.feed her ONLY what the vet recommends..its harder for them to loose weight then to gain. a good purina puppy chow should be fine the package should tell you how much. PLEASE PLEASE ...wash her food/water dishes regularly ( 1-3 times per week) change her water 2-3 times per day..put a collar on her now..she will get used to it and take it off every nightafter last potty call..then put it on next potty call. potty ** in a few weeks if you have a friend or family with a trained dog ask to borrow the dog for a weekend for help..they learn form each otehr I am serious. keep trying to set a pattern.dogs learn from the older ones it is as effortless as it can possibly get. you will do a victory dance and praise the heavens.NEVER EVER give your pup or dog raisins grapes, onions,spicey food or chocolate these are all harmful or deadly.I hope I helped...Have fun and take vidoe they are not little for very long....

first buy a kennel that grows with your dog they have them at petsmart.....and set it to the smallest area so that he can just turn around.....take him out every hour and 30 minutes after feeding..also limit the water but makesure you give enough.....they can also sleep in the kennel...so every time you can't watch your dog put him in the kennel..it will be hard at first but its worth it.....PetsMart manager

We always kennel train. You have to get one that is not too big but just enough room for her to lay in. Any time that you are watching over her you can have her out but when you are not , that means when you are sleeping as well she should be in her kennel.When you first get her out of the kennel you have to take her out .When she does her buisness you always praise her , I mean make a big deal about it with her. If she makes a mess in the house don't whip her you take her to it and tell her that's a bad girl and take her outside. Just remember that if you don't show her what she has done wrong she won't know because they have a short attention span when they are little like that. It won't take long labs are very smart and they love to learn.

I agree with the Petsmart manager. Kennel training is the best way. A good tool for training. Also the puppy has a safe, secure place to sleep/rest. I also use my crates to keep some of my dogs confined when I'm away from home. Better to keep my belongings and my pets safe.

I trained my lab the way the Petsmart manager suggested and he was house broken in just a few weeks and way before anyone said that he would be...of course, he's the bestest and smartest dog ever...;-)

It's alright to keep your dog in the crate....it's one of the best ways to train your dog. If your dog learns that's where it has to sleep, it will not do it's business there. After a while it will make the same association with your house. You have to expect that your dog will make noise the first couple of weeks it sleeps there, but it will eventually learn that all that fussing gets it nowhere. As for house training, you need to take your dog out after it eats, sleeps, and plays. I also found it helpful to keep my dog's leash by the front door where she could see it, that way she learned that's where she had to be to go out. Eventually she associated the leash with going out to do her business, and she would try to get at her leash to let me know she had to go.

HOUSETRAININGMost dogs give off signs. They will sniff a spot and circle. You can watch for tell-tale behavior like that, and immediatly scoop up your dog and take her outside to "do the deed". Each time you go outside, take her to the same spot and use a code word like, "Go potty!" when you want her to us the bathroom. Gently pet her and praise her in a normal tone when she goes outide.I hope this helps you. I was so unsure when I got my dog...I read all the books and watched all the DVDs and bought all the best products. I can't imagine when I have kids!When she does use the bathroom where you don't want her to, don't rub her nose in it or anything else like that. Rubbing her nose in poop can cause infections, especially if she has tapeworms or something like that. Just wipe up the spot and make sure (this is very important!) that you use a pet spot cleaner. You can buy the best stuff on the market at PetSmart or SuperPetz. A less effective brand (but it still works) is available at Wal-Mart. If you only wiped up the spot, your dog will go back to that spot and smell her "target", and decide that's where she's supposed to go next time. The cleaner removes all the doggy scent from your floors and furniture, so the puppy can't smell it, and therefore, it isn't a choice potty spot.If you must leave your dog alone during the day, you may want to crate train or paper train your dog, at least for a little while. They're both extremely effective until your dog is housetrained.Also, you could put your dog on a schedule to housetrain her. When I first got my Rotti-Shepard pup, I would take him out every 20 minutes. Most of the time, he wouldn't do anything, but it wasn't the point. It got him used to the idea that outside was where that happened. You also may need to get up during the night and take her out. My dog is 6 months old and now goes outside every two hours during the day and every four hours at night. He is housetrained, though, so I can tell you that this works.A puppy will need to relieve herself after playing, eating, sleeping or napping, or any other activity that takes her mind away from the task at hand. I would take my puppy out right after eating, drinking water, playing, sleeping, or just lying around. As soon as he would move, we would go outside. Limiting your dog's water intake is also a possibility. It may just be that she is drinking too much water and her body can't use it all. Dogs should be provided fresh water with every meal, after playtime and sleeping, except at night. That wouldn't be a good idea. You're dog will not die of thirst or anything like Most dogs give off signs. They will sniff a spot and circle. You can watch for tell-tale behavior like that, and immediatly scoop up your dog and take her outside to "do the deed". Each time you go outside, take her to the same spot and use a code word like, "Go potty!" when you want her to us the bathroom. Gently pet her and praise her in a normal tone when she goes outide.CRATE TRAININGA dog who is trained to be content in a crate can be kept safe when traveling in a car, visiting someone else’s home, or being transported in an airplane. Some dogs really take to the crate, preferring to sleep in it or take refuge there when things get too hectic. Other dogs are never happy in the crate, but will tolerate it when necessary. Still other dogs panic when closed in a crate. When to use a crateThe use of a crate is especially helpful when introducing a new puppy or dog to the household. The crate can be used to facilitate house training, and to prevent the dog or puppy from engaging in destructive or inappropriate behavior. Puppies need to be taught to inhibit certain behaviors while in the home, such as digging at the furniture and rugs, chewing table legs and cushions, and stealing from the garbage cans or counters. This teaching is only possible when you can observe and monitor the dog’s behavior. Crating can be a lifesaver when this is impossible—when you leave the dog home alone, for example.WHAT NOT TO DO Crates can be easily misused: - The crate should NOT be used to contain a dog simply because the dog is a nuisance and requires attention. A puppy or young dog can be annoying and exhausting, but it is unfair and negligent to lock the animal up rather than provide the training he needs. - A dog should never be left in a crate for extended periods of time. An 8- to 16-week-old puppy should not crated for longer than an hour at a time, except for during the night. A four- to six-month-old puppy shouldn’t be crated for longer than a two- to three-hour period. - An adult dog can be crated for as long as eight hours, but it is unreasonable to expect a dog to be content in a crate if he hasn’t received adequate exercise beforehand. A dog should only be crated during an eight-hour workday if he has been given at least 30-60 minutes of exercise beforehand. This is even more of a concern if the dog is crated at night as well —in which case he should receive 60-90 minutes of exercise outside, in the morning, before being placed back in the crate. Should crating ever be used as a means of punishing the dog? If this is the only way the crate is used, the dog may come to dislike the crate. Some dogs will view the crate as a safe refuge, seeking it out to escape further punishment. It is acceptable to use the crate sparingly as a time-out place, but the dog should have many additional pleasant experiences with the crate, to counteract any possible negative associations.A dog who is prone to guarding his belongings may also guard the area around his crate. Always be cautious when walking by an open crate or when removing such a dog from his crate. Do not reach in for the dog—either entice him out or lift the crate up from the back to “spill” the dog out. Some dogs appear to feel vulnerable and “trapped” in a crate, and may react with aggression when approached by unfamiliar people or dogs while inside.HOW TO TEACH YOUR DOG TO ENJOY HIS CRATEThe instructions that follow are designed to teach a dog to enjoy being in a crate. The speed with which you progress depends upon the dog and whether he already dislikes the crate. If your dog has a history with the crate and is now reluctant to go in, get a different type of crate and work through the steps very slowly. There are wire crates, plastic airline crates, and mesh crates. The mesh crate is the most portable but is inappropriate for dogs who are big on chewing. The mesh and airline crates provide the most privacy for the dog. Some dogs like to have a blanket or towel draped over the wire crate to give a more “denlike” feel. Truly crate-phobic dogs may need preliminary training with crate-like structures. For instance, you might wish to teach the dog to walk under a suspended tarp, step between two upright boards, or lie down in the bottom half of an airline crate (top removed) before ever introducing him to a crate. Difficult dogs also benefit from training to sit, down, stay, and to step forward and back, as this gives you more precision in instructing the dog on exactly what behavior you’d like him to perform. The following instructions incorporate the use of a clicker to precisely indicate the behavior you are reinforcing. You can also use a verbal sound marker (such as a clearly enunciated “yes”) whenever you see the indication to click. You may wish to begin using an airline crate with the door removed, or simply leave it ajar; flip the door of a mesh crate up over the roof. And remember, always progress through the steps at a pace that is appropriate for your dog. Repetition is the key to success, but you don’t want to bore the dog by staying at one step for too long.1. Sit down in front of the crate with your dog. Have a supply of whatever treats he really likes. Show him a treat and toss it just inside the mouth of the crate. Allow the dog to reach in and take the treat. Repeat several times, sometimes requiring that he step a little further inside the crate. Always permit him to step back out at will.2. Show the dog a treat and move as though you are tossing it inside the crate. When the dog looks in the crate, click or say “Yes!” and toss the treat inside. After a few repetitions, wait for the dog to actually take a step toward the crate before clicking and tossing the treat inside. Once the dog is taking a step toward the crate, you are well on your way. With each repetition, always allow the dog to come back out of the crate. If he prefers to stay inside (presumably he’s figured out that he gets treats in there), give him a second treat for coming back out.3. Dog takes two steps toward the crate, click and toss a treat into the mouth of the crate.4. Dog moves to the crate and sticks his head inside the mouth, click and toss a treat into the crate.5. Dog moves to the crate and places one front foot into the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate.6. Dog moves to the crate and places one front foot, then the other, into the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate.7. Dog moves to the crate, places both front feet in the crate, then takes another step deeper into the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate.8. Dog moves to the crate, steps into the crate, and places one rear foot into the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate.9. Dog moves to the crate, steps inside the crate, and places rear feet in the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate. At this point, the dog may back out of the crate or may turn around and walk forward out of the crate. Give a second treat when the dog exits the crate. Turning in the crate is preferred to exiting, as it sets you up nicely for subsequent steps. If the dog is inclined to back out, try reaching in with a treat in your hand, and luring the dog around. If the dog is nervous when you reach in, try a wider crate. He may feel more comfortable turning in a wider space or he may be more comfortable with you luring him around. Once turning is well established, wean off reaching in and luring him.10. Dog moves to crate, steps inside, turns around, click and quickly reach inside to hand the treat.11. Introduce a verbal cue to tell the dog to go inside the crate, such as “Go in your crate,” “Get in your box,” “Load up,” etc. Say this just prior to your dog moving toward the crate. If the dog starts to move to the crate before you tell him, that’s fine.12. Cue the dog to get in the crate, dog moves to crate, steps inside, turns around, and takes a step toward the exit, click and reach inside to hand the treat. You should skip this step if the crate is so small that the dog can only take one step before exiting the crate.13. Cue the dog to get in the crate, dog moves to crate, steps inside, turns around, cue the dog to sit or lie down—whichever he is most likely to do. When he does, click and quickly reach inside to offer the treat. If you need to, cue the dog to sit or lie down, and then reach inside to lure the dog into position.14. Cue the dog to get in the crate, dog moves to crate, steps inside, turns around, cue the dog to sit or lie down: when he does, cue him to stay, wait 1-2 seconds, click and quickly reach inside to offer the treat. Say “Okay” and move back out of the crate so the dog can exit.15. The dog should begin to automatically sit or lie down when he goes into the crate, without you having to cue him. If, at any time, the dog exits the crate before completing the full sequence of turning and sitting or lying down or staying, say “Too bad!” and withhold the treat. Start again. If he fails more than twice in a row, do something to help him succeed—maybe reach in with a treat to lure him to step farther inside or to adopt the sit or lie down position. Rely on this only once or twice; after that, he should be expected to perform the sequence himself. If he still fails, quit the session (maybe the dog is tired of the training) or revert to an earlier step and get an easier behavior well established before progressing again.16. When the dog can go inside the crate, sit or lie down and stay for 10-20 seconds, begin closing the door. With a wire or airline crate, touch the door, click and quickly reach inside to offer the treat. Say “Okay” and move back out of the crate so the dog can exit. With a mesh crate, lift the door slightly off the roof, then replace, click and quickly reach inside to offer the treat. Say “Okay” and move back out of the crate so the dog can exit. Dogs with a history of disliking a crate will need a long time at this step to become comfortable with the crate door closing.17. Gradually move the door toward the closed position until it is completely closed. Build the dog up to the point that he can remain in position inside the crate, with it closed for 20-30 seconds, before actually latching the door. Dogs with a history of disliking a crate will need a long time at this step to become comfortable with the crate door closing.18. Continue to increase the time the dog is inside the crate, with the door latched. If the dog stands up or scratches at the door, say “Uh uh” and cue the dog to lie down again. If he does not lie down, reach in and lure him back into position, tell him to stay, close the door again momentarily, then click and quickly reach inside to offer the treat. Say “Okay” and open the door fully so the dog can exit.19. Once the dog is able to lie down in the crate for one to two hours, always give him something nice to eat or chew to pass the time, such as a stuffed Kong, Goodie Ship, Dentabone, Greenie, or chew bone. Skip this step if the dog is inclined to guard these items because it is imperative that you can remove them each time you allow the dog to exit the crate.20. As the dog tolerates longer periods of time in the crate, vary your position so you are not always sitting right by the crate. Sit farther away, stand up, move about the room, etc. Make sure the dog is comfortable with you moving about the room before you ever attempt to leave the room or the house. Some dogs may never be able to tolerate staying in the crate while you engage in an activity they consider fun, such as sweeping the floor, playing with your child, visiting with guests, or training another pet. If you must crate the dog at these times, it is better to move the crate to a more isolated location. Alternatively, you may have to put up with the dog barking and scratching to be released. Any time the dog is whining, barking, or scratching to be released from the crate, always cue the dog to sit or lie down before opening the door. The dog will learn that sitting or lying down is the best way to get you to open the door. Make sure you don’t inadvertently teach the dog to whine, bark, or scratch to be released. Just make sure that most of the time you release the dog from the crate before he engages in these behaviors. If you find that he is always demanding to be released, you need to go back to the beginning steps and build up his comfort level again.If you need more info, let me know.

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