1 and a half month german shepherd puppy's diet?

what is the best diet for 1 and a half month german shepherd puppy now days i am giving him milk, cerelak only but i regularly offer him curd milky cheese e.t.c but he didn't eat them now i am in some tension he's not becoming healthy so that's why i…

    1 and a half month german shepherd puppy's diet?

    what is the best diet for 1 and a half month german shepherd puppy now days i am giving him milk, cerelak only but i regularly offer him curd milky cheese e.t.c but he didn't eat them now i am in some tension he's not becoming healthy so that's why i…...
    General Dog Discussions : 1 and a half month german shepherd puppy's diet?...

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    • 1 and a half month german shepherd puppy's diet?

      1 and a half month german shepherd puppy's diet? General Dog Discussions
      what is the best diet for 1 and a half month german shepherd puppy now days i am giving him milk, cerelak only but i regularly offer him curd milky cheese e.t.c but he didn't eat them now i am in some tension he's not becoming healthy so that's why i want to know what should i gave him to eat and in which quantity

      1 and a half month german shepherd puppy's diet?

      1 and a half month german shepherd puppy's diet? General Dog Discussions
    • Should still be with its mum until minimum 8wks old, 12wks is better.Lactos puppy milk (comes in tins like human baby powdered milk) from pet store give am and pm with weetabix or instant porridge and 2 meals of good quality puppy food either kibble or tinned.

    • Many vets prove how little they know about nutrition. Most of them, and most of the pet-people in YahooAnswers, get their "knowledge" of nutrition from kibble manufacturers. Is it surprising that kibble manufacturers don't recommend REAL food? Even though the research on bloat (see first link) shows that the period in which bloat escalated some 18000% matches the period in which kibbles went from virtually unknown to virtually universal? Even though many people who have switched their old dogs from kibbles to a meat-based diet have found that their dog becomes young again?To me, if it comes in cups it's not dog food.You should not have accepted a pup younger than 7 weeks - he needed that time to learn pack manners from his siblings and dam and whatever uncles & aunts he mixed with. But as you've got him you will just have to work harder than most people to ensure that he learns how to behave around other dogs and doesn't become one of those "rude" dogs that upset other pooches by the way he approaches them. But until 2 weeks after his 16 weeks booster shot you need to do his socialisation in places where dogs do not piddle/poo/vomit."Debbie C" take note:Behavioural studies by J. Paul Scott et al at Bar Harbour, Maine 50+ years ago showed that the best time to rehome a pup is in the period 7 through 11 weeks, and that although a pup with great genetics will adapt even if rehomed between 12 and 16 weeks, pups with less-good characters will be damaged if they lose their "supports" during that critical "need security" period. Your easiest access to the research is probably through Pfaffenburger's book on dog behaviour, which also gives the way Guide Dogs for the Blind evaluated its pups..He should still be on 4 meals a day.From 8 weeks through 5 months my pups get 3 meals a day. All 3 are based on full-cream milk heavily fortified with human quality powders. At least 2 of them include raw meat.See, dogs are canids. Canids are carnivores. Carnivores have a short digestive tract, and enzymes perfectly adapted to a diet of animal protein - birds, eggs, fish, insects, mammals, reptiles - whether fresh killed or carrion. They lack the enzymes needed to break down the cellulose walls of plant materials, they lack the enzymes to convert plant proteins to digested products - and even if they had both sets of enzymes their gut is too short to give the enzymes time to work. Crushing & cooking makes plant protein digestible, but denatures the vitamins.Mammals rely upon milk in their early life.Canids have a social mechanism where a mobile pup licks an adult's lips and the adult regurgitates some partially-digested meat.Which adds up to telling me the way to feed my pups.I start my pups on a fortified-milk mix with jellimeat (as canned for cats) in it on day 21, change from jellimeat to crumbled dog sausage or coarse mince at about 4 weeks (once the pups are chewing instead of just inhaling everything), and by 6 weeks old the pups usually have enough teeth to chomp strips of actual raw meat. My pups are not weaned until the day they leave me, but from 4 weeks on they are capable of being weaned.My milk mix starts with• 750+gms of baby powders (Farex, Baby Rice, Baby Custard) for carbohydrates & flavours• 250gms max of Complan for vitamins & minerals• 125gms max of veterinary calcium or BoneGro because meat is high in phosphorus, low in calciummixed together & stored in an air-tight bin.At each meal some is beaten into full-cream milk (goat's or cow's) to make a "sloppy porridge" then the jellimeat or mince or strips of meat are stirred in. If he waddles away without finishing it you offered him too much.The actual quantities depend on his appetite at present - as soon as he leaves the dish for any reason (other than to investigate the tin you dropped nearby to get him used to noises) you put the dish away until next meal time. As a rough guide, I'd be putting about 3-4ozs/100-120gms of meat in his milk mix at breakfast time and again at supper time; that would rise to about 16ozs/450gms by 5 months old. But the actual amounts depend on how much exercise the pup is getting, and how efficiently it turns food into "growing pup", so the key word is "about".Don't let people put you off milk by claiming lactose intolerance (casein intolerance is more likely). I've raised over 300 pups. The ONLY intolerance case I've had was my first GSD (obviously he wasn't of my breeding. Nor did I breed from him); at about 5 months old he developed an under-arm wet rash. Using water instead of cow's milk quickly cleaned that up; so would goat's milk had it been available. (My hunting cats also thrived on cow's milk in addition to their meat.)http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/The_GSD_Source/links/Feeding__Nutrition__GDV_Bloat_001198556443/ will give you a host of ideas on how to feed adults, including how to compare different kibbles (if you MUST!). If your family cooks healthily I recommend that when your pup is older his diet be raw meat-on-the-bone, supplemented by whatever cooked table-scraps are available. Note that the research on bloat recommends that if you MUST feed kibbles they should have table-scraps on top. Apart from the "no no"s of fish needles and baked/roasted bones, cooked table scraps can be used at any time from about 6 weeks on.However you feed him, his last meal each day should include a gnaw bone - it gives him something to do while you're all boringly asleep; the gnawing cleans his teeth, helps dislodge deciduous teeth, and helps permanent teeth break through the gums; any bits he chomps off get digested & have a perfect calcium to phosphorous balance.To discuss GSDs you should be in a couple of the 300+ YahooGroups dedicated to various aspects of living with GSDs. Click on the name of any group that seems interesting; that will take you to its Home Page. Read the "mission statement" to see whether they are likely to want to talk about what you want to talk about (some groups let you read old messages; others are secretive). If they are, scroll down to the Monthly Activity display to see whether they are almost "dead" or are producing more traffic than you can cope with.Les P, owner of GSD_Friendly: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly"In GSDs" as of 1967

    • Oh please come and check out our nutrition forums at http://www.germanshepherdworld.net/ Milk, cereal, and cheese could very well be upsetting his stomach as dogs are most often lactose intolerant. We all want to let others know what's best for their pups!!