Hi,I adopted a 7yr old Dalmation. When walking,she barks aggressively when approaching other dogs?

I have tried to find classes for her to become apart of a 'pack' but i have had no joy! - With that i have tried various techniques from the 'Dog Whisperer' - still no change.Apart from her aggressive behaviour when walking, she is really well behaved in the house and is fine with people?Any answers would be gratefully recieved.Thank you.

this dawg is gay

your dog barks at other dogs when out for a walk because he is tell the other dogs to stay away from you. its your dogs way of protecting you.

She may have been a watch dog to her former owner, and may have not beennear other dogs! hey, does she wag her tail when she barks? if so, she is exited and maybe was not raised with other dogs. so she wants to meet them!

She just hasn't been socialised unfortunately...I would suggest trying to get her enrolled in a puppy class, i understand that she isn't a puppy, but maybe she will not find them of a threat and can begin socialising with them?Then they get older and she has some adult friends too.She is just scared of them.

she needs to play with other dogs more often to become sociable my dog is the same way but there isnt enough dogs around to get him to be sociable...hope this helps

Dalmatians are real "talkers" - they tend to whimper and whine constantly at home, just joining in with the family conversation! Maybe she is being assertive - letting you know that a potential threat is approaching, rather than being aggressive. Ours used to do that, particularly when walking at night. It is natural protective behaviour. Does she just bark? Or growl/bare her teeth/try to attack? If it is just barking, I wouldnt worry too much, although socialising at an off-leash dog park would be wise.If she is getting aggressive and trying to attack other dogs you definitely need to take her to formal training as you don't want her attacking another dog and needing to be put down.Good luck with your Dally. They are gorgeous, friendly, gentle dogs.

Needs properly trained. Without hurting the dog , walk it on a choke chain lead . With the hand-piece of the lead in your right hand and the strap going across your front feeding into your left hand. The dog will of course be on your left.As you approach an on coming dog & your dalmation starts its nonesense pull sharply on the choke chain and say loudly & firmly NO. Each time you pull the chain say NO,just the command word NO, nothing else, idiots talk to dogs as though they are human and can understand English. This confuses the dog , so make it easy for the dog , one word NO.It wiil soon get the message if you are firm & persistant. If you are incapable of applying the aforementioned discipline then let your dog do as it wishes & learn to live with it.

try having a tin filled with a few small stones, and every time she barks at other dogs rattle the tin, so she becomes distracted. it will take her mind off the other dogs and eventualy she will stop barking at them.give her a small treat every time she stops barking when you rattle the tin.

Most dogs that do that do so from poor temperaments, they are fearful. You can use the NILIF training around the house b4 you take her to an obed. class but dogs who have a clear Alpha do not go after other dogs, the Alpha wolf makes all the decisions in the pack so you need to be the boss. There are many behavior books, one author is Dr. Dodman who also has a behavior clinic at Tuft's. I worked with a fearful GSD who attacked other dogs, we muzzled him, walked him near my non aggressive Alpha Rott and he gradually calmed down. He went on to live with 5 other GSDs and earn his C.D. obed title. He went to school for about a year to become well behaved and allow people to do the stand for exam. He was from a well known kennel in Ca. sired by a Grand Victor but had a bad hip and worse temperament. We used to run him, his other GSD "brothers", my 2 large dogs, my GSD rescues and a friend's 2 GSDs all together with no fights.

Your dog is frightened of the other dogs when she is on the lead. Perhaps she would be OK if she was let off in a safe area with other dogs, however don't try this yet.Play with your dog in the garden or your house and get her to do things for you, such as sit, down or come. When your dog pleases you make a silly excitable sound like “wowie” and immediately give your dog a treat, or better still buy a clicker and research how to use it on the Internet.The idea is that your dog should know when she pleases you and know that she is going to get a treat. After you have taught her that when she pleases you make your silly sound and give her a treat, take her out for a walk ON HER LEAD. In the wild dogs curve, they don't walk towards another animal, always do this or cross to the other side of the road. Try to keep a reasonable distance from other dogs and if she looks at them without fear or apparent aggression, make your silly sound and give her a treat. Keep doing this for several days and if she acts in a fearful manner do not give her a treat and do not say anything to her. NEVER TUG AT HER LEAD or chastise her, this will make her more affraidOver a period of weeks, get closer to the other dogs and continue making your silly sound and giving her a treat. Eventually your dog will associate other dogs with praise and treats. You could at this stage try to find a friendly dog for her to play with, do this in an area which has a fence. I think that taking her to training classes before you do any of the above would be folly; it’s like throwing her in the deep end.Clickers are a wonderful training aid It’s better than saying “wowie” or another silly sound and the clicker works for numerous things that you may want to train your dog to do.

dalmatiAns are a very aggressive breed. at 7 years old you have a tough job ahead of you. i would put a bark collar on her and let her correct herself.

my dose the same expet she is to maybe they think you will like the other dog more than them so they are warning the other dog to stay back that you are there owner

1. The Dog Whisperer isn't going to be much help with you on this issue. I'll spare all the discussion of his techniques and approaches but the quick summary is that his basic default is that your dog is being dominant and it's about pack issues. And instead, it sounds like your dog doesn't have issues with you or other people so it's not about dominance. Furthermore, it's not about the dog failing to accept her role in a "pack" with humans. We can debate Cesar Millan another day, let's just agree that most of what he could conceivably offer isn't relevant to your situation.2. It sounds like what you have is what most trainers would call a "reactive" dog. Generally speaking, a reactive dog isn't a bad dog or an unsocialized dog or a poorly trained dog. But a reactive dog "reacts" to stimuli it receives from other dogs. For instance, your dog is doing fine. It encounters a Border Collie who gives it the traditional BC stare and suddenly a switch is flipped in your dog and it goes bonkers. Don't know if that describes one scenario you've faced but it's one I encounter a lot with my guy (who is reactive). Reactivity shows up lots of ways (my dog has been bitten twice by bigger dogs so he's now suspicious and reactive towards many bigger dogs and reactive to BC's). Let's go into more details about reactivity.3. Reactivity:--lots of things can set it off. It's not just a standard set of behaviors that are the same in all dogs. As a result, it's not possible for one person (sight unseen) to say "well, what you need is a gentle leader" or "you need to train your dog more" or some other specific tactic or handling response because all reactive dogs aren't the same. And please, don't assume that a choke collar or electronic collar will help. If your dog is reactive it will make things worse. This isn't about a rude dog with poor training, this sounds like a dog that gets an adrenaline spike caused by fear or stress when another dog shows up. Add a jolt of electricity or choke it's windpipe and it doesn't reduce the adrenaline or calm it down. Tactics that make sense for a dog that just barks a bit or needs training aren't the same ones you'd use for a reactive dog.--typically it is your dog's response to another dog. The other dog does something (and that could be as simple as just getting close to you--and close could mean 30 yards) and it's perceived as a threat by your dog. Be clear: reactive dogs feel threatened. They're not looking to be the aggressor--they feel someone has been the aggressor to them!--the keys to managing a reactive dog are to identify the triggers that set your dog off (because it's not quite as simple as "dogs"), just like a vaccination work with your dog "sub threshold" to build up tolerance for those triggers, and then learn games to manage/control/distract your dog during those situations as well as identify the warning signals before it comes.4. What to do about reactivity? Well, there are a couple of things you can do and they're incredibly effective.--study your dog's nonverbal behavior. Before your dog reacts, there are warning signals. Your dog might start staring intently before barking. Or her ears might go back. You might see "whale eye" (big eyes) or pupils dilate. Hair might start to go up on her spine. Before she reacts, she'll give you some subtle warning signs (and right now, we as humans just aren't smart enough to notice them). You might find it useful to look at "The Language of Dogs" by Sarah Kalnajais on DVD--it is a superb and detailed serious on dogs and the signals they give off (across all breeds) that express their joy or anger or fear or uncertainty or stress. For instance, did you know that when a dog sneezes, it's saying "yes--this is great--I'm loving it!"? I didn't either until I saw Sarah's work. At anyrate, when you spot the warning signs you can act to prevent the reactivity. Because here's the problem: when we let it get to the reactive stage, we are allowing our dog to rehearse the bad behavior (and thus it builds and gets worse).--Get your hands on Leslie McDevitt's book "Control Unleashed." While it says it was written for agility competitors, the book is a series of practical, hands-on activities you can do with your dog to both manage and reduce reactivity. I read it and used it with my dog. He's not perfect but we're so much better at this problem now. There are a series of games ("Look at That" has been a godsend for us--I guarantee you'll read about that game and feel like it was created with you and your girl in mind) that you can pick and choose from. There is also a control unleashed listserv on yahoo groups that you can ask questions and share problems with that Leslie moderates. You can also find out about CU resources in your area.

I have the same problem with my jrt/border collie she is agressive and lunges for small dogs i have now taken to carrying a water bottle with me when every she lunges or growls at a small dog i spray her with water and say NO loud and make her sit and look at me till the small dog has passed we r not having as much lunging and growling at the small dogs since i have started using this it is doiung the job but it is taking time but i will do it until she finally realises she can not do this in public.I'm not sure if this helps but i thought i would let you know what i do with my dog

You should find a trainer and read some books. Consider Feisty Fido and Click To Calm, Control Unleashedwww.fearfuldogs.com/books.htmlYou need to understand triggers, thresholds, counter conditioning and desensitization. You need to change how the dog feels about other dogs and that isn't easy. As you've discovered it has nothing to do with bullying your dog into doing what you want or punishing it. The website listed above has information about the training techniques mentioned. You do not want to continue to put the dog into situations in which it can practice the behavior you want to stop.